
by
David Leff
Towering trees with spreading crowns combined with a hushed sylvan
quiet sometimes makes stepping into the woods feel like entering a
cathedral. Perhaps just such an experience contributes to a belief by
some people that within Connecticut’s Cockaponset State Forest in
Guilford is a 5th century Byzantine Church, the oldest Christian house
of worship in North America. But don’t expect ruined walls, belfry
remains or pews. It’s more of an outdoor chapel, a space in the woods
with interesting carving in the bedrock that most people wouldn’t notice
unless they were looking for it.
An old woods road runs close to Amtrak’s line between New York and
Boston. It leads past a small, overgrown granite quarry whose rock
face still reveals steam drill holes and the tooth-like marks left from
splitting stone with a wedge and shims. Nearby is a pile of big stone
blocks, harvested from the quarry and then abandoned. From this site a
trail winds through a rough, boney landscape thick with oaks. After a
leisurely fifteen minute hike, a low rise is reached not far from the
rugged, marshy shore of Lost Lake. Half hidden by leaves and other
detritus is a series of rock sculptures.
Among the sculptures are a stalagmite-like floral

creation, a flame shaped basin carved into a ledge and surrounded by
drill holes, a rock formed into a seat, a four petal flower, and a
freestanding rectangular basin. A large rock outcrop is carved with a
series of
stepped grooves above which is a small flattened area surrounded by drill holes.
Subscribers to the church theory see inscriptions
in
the rocks which suggest that the carving was the work of North African
Monks 1,500 years ago. They see the basins as baptismal fonts, the seat
as a throne, and the flattened and grooved chunk of ledge as an altar.
Vertical drill holes are candle holders and the horizontal ones reveal
patterns with images and letters. A more prosaic alternative holds that
this little plateau was the
lunch site of
quarrymen
carving out blocks for railroad abutments and bridges little more than a
century ago. In spare moments they doodled, practicing their mason
skills to pass the time.
Regardless of whether the carvings are the work of ancient monks or
the graffiti of nineteenth century stonemasons, these primitive
sculptures are both beautiful and intriguing. It’s tempting to believe
the

more complex and antique (albeit bizarre
)explanation
because it adds a mystical allure to the site, though I can better
imagine the quarry crew eating and swapping stories as they tried their
talent. There is a magic in the juxtaposition of such different
interpretations. In any event, the presence of these sculptures among
the trees adds depth and texture to the landscape and elevates a simple
walk in the woods with a mix of awe and wonder.
08.10.2010
http://davidkleff.typepad.com/home/2010/11/byzantine-church-or-stonemason-doodling.html
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